Frequently Asked Questions
On Scope Mounts
Questions regarding EAW mounts
I bought a weapon at a good price. Now, my gunsmith suggested me to get an EAW pivot mount which nearly costs the same. Does this make any sense?
Yes. Although a mount is rather inconspicuous, it is very important. It is quite evident that the best rifle and the most expensive scope won't be good for anything if the link in-between, the scope mount, is not reliable or precise. If the optic and the mount are right, you can make a lot more even out of a cheap rifle.
What is better: a scope with a mounting rail or one intended for rings?
This question cannot be answered in general, as the following aspects have to be considered:
- Scopes with a rail often are heavier.
- Scopes without a rail can be fitted up to 6 mm lower (this is only true for small scopes).
- To fit a scope with a standard rail is more time-consuming.
- When you use a scope with standard rail, you may end up with a hole that shows when the scope is being re-mounted (you might be able to hide it by using a wider top later on).
- Scopes with a rail do not have to be aligned. But as a matter of fact, it will not be possible to align them anyhow if the drilled holes in the rifle are not accurate enough!
- There are scopes that have thin walls. If you have a scope with rail there is no danger of deforming the tube body.
- It's a matter of taste.
I do not want to remove the scope from the weapon. Will a non-detachable mount be sufficient?
Like the word already says, a non-detachable mount connects a weapon and a scope in an entirely rigid way. The mount does not offer any possibilities for the compensation of tension, e. g. caused by heat expansion - a miss might be the consequence. In this respect, particularly the EAW pivot mounts have excellent technical features which allow an absolutely tension-free placement of the scope, thus providing optimum conditions for good shooting results.
I do not dare taking off my EAW pivot mount. Is it really 100 % sure that the scope will return to the exact same position when being replaced?
If the scope was fitted correctly, we guarantee you a 100 % that there won't be a change in the point of impact. Many thousands of shooters and also many specialists can confirm you this.
Why do EAW mounts not have Torx screws?
Simply because it is not necessary. The problem is not that Allen screws might not be tightened well enough, but it is quite the opposite: Torx screws might tempt you to tighten them too much, which could lead to deformation of the tube body.
Were can I buy EAW mounts?
Any gunsmith or specialist firearms dealer can supply you with EAW mounts. We do not sell direct. Should you, however, have any questions or require any specific information, please do not hesitate to contact us by phone, fax, E-mail, or over the internet.
Can I mount one or several additional scopes on a rifle that has already been fitted with the foot plates of an EAW pivot mount (with pivot pin lock)?
Yes. You can fit one or even several additional scopes without any problem. You only will need additional top parts suited for the scope(s) in question, which fit into the existing bases. Only some small adjustment and touching up work will be necessary.
Can I alternately use one scope on various rifles?
As a rule the answer is NO, as the distance between the foot plates may vary considerably according to the rifle model, and very often there is a difference in height between the front base and rear base. Even with identical rifles it is hardly ever possible, due to possible tolerances in the construction of the rifles.
Is it possible to install a second scope on an existing claw mount?
Theoretically, it is possible in some cases. Nevertheless, the possibilities are rather limited, in particular with scopes that are differing considerably as far as their outer dimensions are concerned: Almost always you will have to fit a second front base, as otherwise it might be difficult to obtain a good interocular distance. Should it be possible from the technical side, you surely have to reckon with high costs incurred by the long fitting time.
In some cases it is possible to fit a second scope with a EAW mounting rail model 801 or 812. However, the conversion into an EAW pivot mount with lever usually is much cheaper and causes less problems.
I have an EAW pivot mount that was made in 1969. Can I still get spare parts for it?
Of course, you can. All parts of the today's EAW pivot mounts still suit previous models.
After the scope has been pivoted into place, the first shot hits alright, but the second goes way off. What might be the cause of this?
Possible sources of error:
- The front foot can be turned with force only:
- With adjustable front bases: adjust the front base in a way to ensure hat the front foot can be turned without tension. If the front base is not adjustable, carefully retouch the rim bearing of the front base.
- The lever of the pivot pin rests on the housing of the rear base:
- Adjust the breechblock according to the mounting instructions: the lever must stick up approx. 1 mm after the scope has been pivoted into place.
- The T-pin of the rear foot touches the slot in the rear base at the front or at the rear:
- Move the rear foot or front foot along on the scope until the T-pin comes into the centre of the slot when pivoting in, and adjust the breechblock again according to the mounting instructions.
- The rear foot rests on the housing of the rear base:
- Adjust the breechblock according to the mounting instructions: there must be a small light gap between the rear foot top and the housing of the rear base.
- The swing bolts in the front foot have come loose:
- Screw them down very tight: it would be best if you screwed them down tight several times and then loosened them again, as this will accelerate the setting behaviour of the material. Do not glue them! Do not use any loctite!
- The scope (fitted with rings) moves in the rings when a shot is fired. How much should the ring clamping screws be tightened?
- The screws should not be tightened too much, i. e. with a maximum force of 200 Ncm, and by no way "the more, the better". It is advisable to furnish the lower part of the front ring with a two-component adhesive. If necessary, this glue can be softened later on. You only will have to warm up the ring, and then you can take off the scope.
The screws that fix the front plate to the rifle have ripped off. What is the cause of this?
The drilled and tapped holes for these screws which are usually provided by the arms manufacturers are not sufficiently dimensioned. The "traditional" screw dimensions do not comply with the calibres and scopes that are commonly used today. For this reason, the front bases have to be secured by glue already with medium rifle calibres. The front bases can still be adjusted sufficiently. Usually, it is not necessary to solder them on. As nearly the entire recoil forces act upon the front part of the mount, the rear base, if fitted properly, does not have to secured additionally.
Will it be enough to use glue in order to secure the mounting parts, or would it be better to solder them on?
In case of pivot mouns for bolt actions rifles, usually only the front base has to be furnished with glue. Before applying the glue, carefully remove the blueing from the contact faces and degrease them. Please do strictly adhere to the instructions given by the glue maker. Soldering may be preferrable in some exceptional cases.