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Questions regarding EAW mounts
I bought a weapon at a good price. Now, my gunsmith suggested me to get an EAW pivot mount which nearly costs the same. Does this make any sense?
Yes. Although a mount is rather inconspicuous it is very important. It is quite evident that the best weapon and the best scope won't be good for anything if the link in-between is not reliable or precise. If the optic and the mount are right you can make a lot more even out of a cheap weapon
What is better: a scope with rail or one for rings?
You cannot answer this question in general, as you will have to consider the following aspects:
- Scopes with rail are often heavier.
- Scopes without rail can be fitted up to 6 mm lower (this is only true for small scopes).
- To fit a scope with standard rail is more time-consuming.
- When you use a scope with standard rail you may end up with a hole that shows when the scope is being re-mounted (you might be able to hide it when you use a wider top later on).
- Scopes with rail do not have to be aligned. But as a matter of fact it will not be possible to align them anyhow if the drilled holes in the weapon are not accurate enough!
- There are scopes that have thin walls. If you have a scope with rail there is no danger of deforming it.
- It's a matter of taste.
I do not want to remove the scope from the weapon. Will a non-detachable mount be sufficient?
Like the word already says, a non-detachable mount connects a weapon and a scope, so that they are entirely rigid – the mount does not offer any possibilities for compensation of tension, e. g. caused by heat expansion - a miss might be the consequence. In this respect, particularly the EAW pivot mounts have excellent technical features which allow an absolute tensionfree bearing of the scope and thus provide optimum conditions for good shooting results.
I do not dare taking off my EAW pivot mount. Is it really 100 % sure that the scope will return to the exact same position when being replaced?
If the scope was fitted correctly, we guarantee you a 100 % that there won't be a change in the point of impact. Many thousands of shooters and also many specialists can confirm you this.
Why do EAW mounts not have Torx screws?
Simply because it is not necessary. The problem is not that allen screws might not be tightened well enough, but it is quite the opposite: Torx screws might tempt you to tighten them too well; the body of the scope could possibly be deformed.
Were can I buy EAW mounts?
Any gunsmith or specialist firearms dealer can supply you EAW mounts. We do not sell direct. Should you, however, have any questions or require any specific information, please do not hesitate to contact us – you even can do this here via Internet.
Can I mount one or several additional scopes on a weapon with already fitted foot plates of an EAW pivot mount (with pivot pin lock)?
Yes. You can fit one or even several additional scopes without any problem. You only will need some additional top parts corresponding to the scope/s in question, which can be fitted into the existing mounting plates. Only some small adjustments and touching up work will be necessary.
Can I alternately use one scope on various weapons?
As a rule the answer is NO, as the distance between the foot plates varies considerably and very often there is a difference in height between the front and rear plate. Even with identical weapons it is hardly ever possible. This is due to the tolerances that are to be found on the weapon and on the mount.
Is it possible to install a second scope on an existing claw mount?
Theoretically, it is possible in some cases. Nevertheless, the possibilities are rather limited, in particular with scopes that are differing a lot as far as their outer dimensions are concerned: Almost always you will have to fit a second front plate, as otherwise you will have problems with the interocular distance. Should it technically be possible, you for sure will have to reckon with high costs for the long fitting-time.
In some cases it is possible to fit a second scope by using an EAW mounting rail of the model 801 or 812. But it has proved that it often is cheaper and less problematic to entirely switch to an EAW pivot mount with lever.
I have an EAW pivot mount that was made in 1969. Can I still get spare parts for it?
Of course, you can. The parts of the EAW pivot mounts that are made today, still do fit the models of then.
Problems
After the scope has been pivoted into place, the first shot hits alright, but the second shot goes way off. What might be the cause?
Possible sources of error:
- The front foot can be turned with force only.
- With adjustable front plates: adjust the front plate more loosely, so that the front foot can be turned without tension. If the front plate is not adjustable, carefully retouch the rim bearing of the front plate.
- The lever of the pivot pin rests on the housing of the rear base. Adjust the breechblock according to the mounting instructions - the lever must stick up approx. 1 mm when the scope has been pivoted into place.
- The T-pin of the rear foot touches the slot in the rear base at the front or at the rear.
- Move the rear or front foot along on the scope until the T-pin comes into the center of the slot when pivoting in and adjust the breechblock anew according to the mounting instructions.
- The rear foot rests on the housing of the rear base.
- Adjust the breechblock according to the mounting instructions – there must be a small light gap between the rear foot top and the housing of the rear base.
- The swing bolts in the front foot have turned loose.
- Screw them down very tight – it would be best if you screwed them down tight a several times and then loosened them again – this will accelerate the setting behaviour of the material. Do not glue them! Do not use any LOC-TITE!
- The scope (fitted with rings) moves in the rings when you fire a shot. How much should the ring clamping screws be tightened?
- The screws should not be tightened too much, i. e. with a max. of 200 Ncm, and not according to the motto "the more, the better". It is advisable to glue the bottom part of the front ring with a two-component adhesive. If necessary, this glue can be softened again later on. You only will have to warm up the ring and then you can take off the scope.
The screws that fix the front plate to the weapon did rip off. What is the cause?
The drilled holes / threads for these screws which are usually provided by the arms manufacturers are not sufficiently dimensioned. The "traditional" screw dimensions do not comply with the calibers and scopes that are commonly used today. For this reason, the front plates have to be glued already with medium calibers. Nevertheless, the front plates can still be adjusted sufficiently. Usually, it is not necessary to solder them. The rear base – if mounted correctly – does not take up the recoil and thus must not be glued.
Will it be enough to glue the mounting parts or would it be better to solder them?
With pivot mounts for bolt action rifles it usually will be sufficient to glue the front plate. Above all it is important that you remove the blueing from the glueing surfaces and degrease them very carefully. Please strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions for the glue! In some extreme cases it can be useful to solder the front plate.